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Advanced Mountaineering
Advanced Level - mountaineering experience required
Bigger mountaineering routes and more challenging alpine objectives require climbers to be able to move fast and efficiently without compromising safety. At a 1:2 ratio, this Advanced course is ideal for anyone who wants to improve their technical climbing skills and systems and move on to the next step in alpinism.

An intensive five days will allow you to improve your skills in a challenging alpine environment with close supervision by our certified ACMG Alpine Guides. Attention is focused on personal climbing technique, hazard awareness, alpine climbing systems, decision-making and technical route finding. You will spend each day climbing peaks with a wide variety of terrain options in groups of two with one instructor. This is an excellent training opportunity for those looking to pursue more technically challenging climbs.

Details for Advanced Mountaineering
Alpine climbing
Dates
Cost
Prerequisites
Location
Guide/Instructor
Itinerary/Objectives
Equipment
Logistics
Related programs
Registration

Dates
June 28-July 2, 2008
July 26-30, 2008
August 16-20, 2008
August 30 - September 3, 2008

This course is offered on a private basis with any group of 2 people at dates of your choice. Please contact our office to set up Custom Dates.

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Cost
$945. plus gst
1:2 Instructor to Student ratio

Includes all instruction; teaching materials and handouts; technical mountaineering equipment.

Options exist to utilize helicopters to access some alpine areas for this course for an added fee.

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Prerequisites
Participants must have snow climbing and glacier travel experience and knowledge of crevasse rescue basics; be comfortable outdoor rock climbing to 5.8 (seconding) and be very comfortable with rope management skills (knot-tying, belaying, rappelling).

Participants should be comfortable with spending 5 days in the mountains in any conditions, and should expect to be out each day for between 8-10 hours or more. Previous mountaineering experience is essential - all participants are required to submit a record detailing highlights of their personal mountaineering trips. This should include actual peaks climbed, courses attended, rock climbing level and a brief description of their own assessment of their climbing level and experience.
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Location
This course is spent fully in an alpine region that is most suitable for the conditions and is based on the current conditions in the alpine. Weather, snow and ice conditions all vary according to season and we choose our actual location as close to the course date as possible to ensure the best possible course for you. Typical locations include the Joffre Range, Cerise Creek and Anniversary Glacier, the Spearhead Range behind Blackcomb and the Sky Pilot region.

Occasionally we will fly into the Tantalus Range, though this requires an added helicopter fee.

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Guides and Instructors
All the Guides and Instructors on our Mountaineering programs are Certified through the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and are among many of the top Climbing instructors and guides in British Columbia. We ensure that you are being taught and guided by the best! For more details on the specific guides for your program, contact our office.
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Objectives and Itinerary
Advanced Mountaineering is specifically designed to accommodate the needs of experienced recreational mountaineers. The five day program is spent fully in an alpine region perfecting alpine climbing techniques while climbing a variety of routes on different terrain. Steep snow, ice, alpine rock and extensive glacier travel will all be covered, with emphasis on having the participants out front making all the decisions. On our Advanced Mountaineering course, you will learn how to move efficiently in alpine terrain, perfecting techniques for safe and smooth travel through changing terrain and variable conditions.

This course is set up to be flexible enough to respond to the individual needs of each participant as well. Our low instructor to student ratio of 1:2 allows for a high degree of direct instruction. We also require that each participant submits a record of their personal climbing history so that we ensure everyone has the required experience for this course. This also allows the Instructors to assess each student and plan the best course possible.

At the conclusion of this course, students will have been taught:
  • effective rope management techniques for alpine terrain
  • how to recognize mountain hazards, and methods of avoiding or minimizing those hazards
  • safe and efficient movement techniques for rock, snow and ice climbing
  • advanced glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques
  • methods to deal with "terrain transitions" (glacier-to-rock, ice-to-snow, etc)
  • alpine travel skills for technical terrain and glaciers

  • Course Outline
    The following is a brief possible schedule for the Canada West Mountain School 5-day Advanced Mountaineering course. Many different variables (such as location, weather, snow conditions, group experience levels, etc) influence the actual day-to-day schedule and the order in which topics are presented, so the following should be considered a general outline only. Prior to the first day of the course, an information package will be sent to all students detailing the meeting time and location for the first day.

    Day 1
    Meet at 0700 at pre-arranged meeting location - Preparation and final logistics
    Approach to Alpine region and establish camp (approx. 3-4 hours)
    Review of technical skills and rescue procedures (3-4 hours)
    Skills covered: alpine rock anchors, crevasse rescue, rappelling, rope management
    Day 2
    Ascent of local peak (full day)
    Skills covered: alpine hazard management, movement skills, rope handling, glacier travel, anchor building, route selection
    Evening session - (2 hours)
    Skills covered: review of day, weather, pre planning for next day
    Day 3
    Alpine traverse including peak ascents (full day)
    Skills covered: rope management in broken terrain, alpine snow anchors, decision making, route finding, rappelling, effective small-group travel techniques
    Evening debrief (1 hour)
    Skills covered: overview of day, tomorrow's objectives, pre-planning, sort and pack gear for next morning, weather
    Day 4
    Alpine traverse including peak ascents (full day)
    Skills covered: steep snow and ice climbing, management of terrain transitions, decision making, route finding
    Evening debrief (1 hour)
    Skills covered: overview of day, tomorrow's objectives, pre-planning, sort and pack gear for next morning, weather
    Day 5
    Review and practice of essential skills covered (4 hours)
    Skills covered: as required, including alpine rock anchors, crevasse rescue, ascending/descending ropes, etc
    Break camp and hike out to trailhead
    Individual assessments and review of course

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    Equipment list for Advanced Mountaineering
    To view or download a printer friendly .PDF file of the Mountaineering equipment list, click here. Adobe Acrobat Reader is required.

    • Boots - full-leather or plastic mountaineering boots. If leather, they should be well broken-in and waterproofed
    • Backpack - 60-80 liters capacity, big enough to hold all gear for the trip plus some extra communal gear
    • Sleeping bag - good to approx. -5 or -10 degrees celsius
    • Sleeping pad - therma-rest style or closed-cell foam
    • Day-pack - 30-40 liters capacity (optional, your backpack can also work as a daypack)
    • Light weight hiking shoes or runners (1 pair optional for around camp)
    • Outer layer jacket with hood - Gore-Tex style
    • Outer layer waterproof pants or bibs, full-zip legs are ideal - Gore-Tex style
    • Lightweight thermal layers - top & bottom, Polypro, Capilene, etc.
    • Climbing/hiking pants - nylon, fleece, Schoeller, etc. (1 pr)
    • Gaiters (1 pr)
    • Gloves (medium weight) - wool or poly-pro (2 pr)
    • Waterproof gloves or mitts w/removable liners (gloves work best for rope handling and ice axe use) (2 pr)
    • Warm parka/jacket - down, synthetic, fleece or pile (1)
    • Sweater or vest - wool, synthetic, fleece or down (1)
    • Socks - wool or synthetic blend (2-3 prs)
    • Toque/warm hat - wool or fleece (1)
    • Sunglasses - 1005 UV block and with side shields (1pr)
    • Ski goggles (optional)
    • Headlamp with extra set of batteries and extra bulb
    • Personal eating utensils - cup, bowl, spoon, etc
    • Personal 1st aid (blister kit, toothbrush, blister kit, toilet paper, medications, etc.)
    • Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
    • Sunscreen - minimum 30 spf
    • Water bottles/hydration system - minimum 1 litres
    • Small "thermos" for hot drinks (optional)
    • Knife - Swiss army style
    • Insect repellant
    • Walking pole(s) - Optional but helpful for the approach/descent to your base camp
    • Compass and map (map #'s to be detailed at pre-trip session)

    • Technical equipment:
      (required by participants)
    • Crampons - adjusted to your boots (1 pr)
    • 2 x 5 meter lengths of 7mm accessory climbing cord
    • 1 x 1.75 meter length of 7mm accessory climbing cord
    • 1 x double shoulder sling, full strength - sewn or non-sewn

    • Communal equipment required:
      (this may be shared among the group participants)
    • 2 or 3 person tents (as necessary)
    • Single burner stoves and fuel (1 stove per 2-3 people)
    • Cooking sets (2 pots per 3 people)
      Technical equipment:
      (supplied by CWMS if required)
    • Ice ax and technical climbing tools
    • Climbing harness - seat harness only
    • Helmet
    • 3 locking carabiners
    • 1 belay device

    • In addition, Canada West Mountain School supplies all other technical and safety gear, including ropes, carabiners, protection, etc.

    Please go over this list before the course to ensure that you are properly prepared and feel free to contact our office if you have any questions. Keep in mind that you will be spending all of your time outdoors in all weather. Much of your time will be spent on snow, with temperatures ranging from -10 at night to +25 during the day. The weather can vary from one extreme to the other, so plan your gear appropriately. It is recommended that you also have a set of spare street clothes for the end of the course after you have left the mountains.

    Here are a few stores in the lower mainland region that supply good service and quality outdoor equipment. If you need to purchase or rent equipment, please contact the store well in advance of the course to ensure that what you require is available!

    Altus Mountain Gear
    137 West Broadway, Vancouver 604-876-5255 (rentals available)
    Climb On Equipment
    Squamish 604-892-2243
    Coast Mountain Sports
    2201 West 4th Avenue, Vancouver 604-731-6181
    Park Royal store - West Vancouver 604 926-6126
    Mountain Equipment Co-op www.mec.ca
    130 West Broadway, Vancouver 604-872-7858 (rentals available)
    1341 Main St, N. Vancouver 604-990-4417 (rentals available) Valhalla Pure
    Station Square, Squamish 604-892-9092 (rentals available)
    3 Vets
    2200 Yukon Street, Vancouver 604-872-5475

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    Logistics and transportation
    All students will be sent a detailed information package after they have registered outlining logistics. The course will be held in one of a variety of locations, including the Joffre and Matier range; the Tantalus Range (additional helicopter fees apply); the Bugaboos; the Rogers Pass region; and other areas depending on current conditions and weather. The scheduled dates do not include travel time to and from the course area if held outside of the south Coast Mountains region.
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    Related Programs
    Alpine Skills Week
    Guided Adventures
    Ice Climbing Essentials
    Intro to Winter Mountaineering

    Please contact the Canada West Mountain School office by phone or email directly for more details.

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    Canada West Mountain School
    47 West Broadway
    Vancouver, BC
    V5Y 1P1

    Information/registration please call: 604-878-7007
    Toll free in North America: 1-888-892-2266

    E-mail CWMS

    This page last updated on January 14, 2008 10:44 PM

     

     

    January 14, 2008 10:44 PM