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Picture of camel herder bringing gear to camp in Mongolia
Khuitin Peak, Mongolia
Journey into the land of Genghis Khan for a cultural and mountaineering adventure unlike any other! We will travel to the far western reaches of Mongolia to climb in the Tavan Bogd mountain range where the highest mountains of Mongolia are located. At 4,374 meters, Khuitin peak is the highest in Mongolia and is situated on the borders of Mongolia, China and Russia.

Dates Cost Prerequisites Location
Guides Itinerary Equipment Logistics
Related programs Registration


Picture of yak horns in Mongolia

Dates
2011-2012 dates TBA
(14-day climbing and cultural program)
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Cost
$4,550 (USD $) per person
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Included in the cost of the trip:
  • All guiding services and organization
  • All food while expedition
  • All required safety equipment
  • Accommodation (tents and huts)
  • Transportation
  • All logistical support for the climb
  • Use of our satellite phone while on the climb
  • Expedition fees and permits
  • Not included in the cost of the trip:

  • Transportation and international flight
  • All meals and beverages while not on the mountain
  • Personal clothing and equipment (see equipment list)
  • Medical insurance* valid for travel in Mongolia
  • Visa’s and proper travel documents for travel to Mongolia
  • Lodging while off of the mountain (except as noted)
  • Tips and gratuities for guides and staff
  • Costs incurred by delays, lost or delayed baggage or for any other reason
  • Personal costs on and off the mountain.


  • * Emergency Travel Insurance
    All participants are encouraged to obtain Emergency Travel and Trip Cancellation insurance. We recommend Ingle International Insurance, for details please visit their site here.
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    Prerequisites
    Though non-technical, the climb of Khuitin requires a good degree of fitness. The terrain in this region of Mongolia is primarily on snow and glaciers, while training climbs in the region are on rough trails with much off-trail terrain. The conditions on summit day can be challenging depending on snow and weather conditions. Though we will travel at a slow pace, being fit is the best way to avoid excess fatigue on the mountain and will greatly increase your chance of summitting.

    Anyone attempting this peak should be in good to excellent physical condition. You will spend much time at altitudes above 3,500 meters and will need to be as fit as possible to help with your performance.

    While previous climbing experience or glacier travel is not required, previous experience backpacking and camping is recommended.

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    Location
    Mount Khuitin is the highest mountain in Mongolia and is situated in the far western reaches of Mongolia, right on the borders of China and Russia.
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    Guides
    This Expedition to Mongolia will be lead by IFMGA Mountain Guide and CWMS Owner Brian Jones, veteran of expeditions to all the 7 Summits of the world. Brian will be working closely with a local Mongolian logistics and support team in order to maximise the quality of the local and cultural experience.

    Group sizes on this expedition are kept small to increase the enjoyment of all members of the team, and to improve the chance of success for all. There will be a maximum of 5 members per each guide, with a maximum of two guided groups per trip.


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    Itinerary
    Group sizes on this expedition are kept small to increase the enjoyment of all members of the team, and to improve the chance of success for all. There will be a maximum of 4 members per each guide, with a maximum of two guided groups per trip. on summit day there will be one guide for every 2 climbers.

    Day 1
    Arrival to Ulaanbaatar, capital of Mongolia. Time is allowed for some cultural sightseeing around this fascinating city.

    Day 2
    Flight to Bayan-Ulgy in western Mongolia. From here we will drive through the high desert to Deer creek. We will have an opportunity o this day to meet with the local people as well.

    Day 3
    Drive to approaches of Tavan Bogd mountain Range. En route we will visit with Kazak falconers hunting with Golden Eagles.

    Day 4
    Hike to Tavan Bogd base camp. We will have a gradual ascent with great views of the Potanin and Alexander glaciers, the peaks of Khuitin (4374m), Nairamdal (4082m), Snowchurch (4071m), Malchin (4050m), and Cradle (4113m). Some of these peaks may be possible 2nd summits if we summit Khuitin with enough extra time!

    Day 5
    Acclimatization climb onto Malchin Peak at 4,050 meters.

    Days 6-8
    These days are set aside for climbing Khuitin Peak.

    Day 9
    Return hike to White River

    Day 10
    Return to Ulgy, overnight in ger (traditional nomadic living shelter)       

    Day 11
    Return flight to Ulaanbaatar

    Day 12-13
    Naadam festival sightseeing. The Naadam festival is the largest national festival in Mongolia, a must-see event for everyone! Traditional games, horseback competitions, dancing, music events, and much more are the perfect way to finish off this great trip to the unique world of Mongolia!

    Day 14
    Departure

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    Equipment list for Mongolia Climbing expedition

    The following personal equipment is required:
    • Boots - sturdy leather backpacking or light mountaineering boots (1 pr)
    • Approach shoes - shoes for the lower mountain approach and around camp (1 pr)
    • Sleeping bag - good to minus 10 Celsius range (1)
    • Sleeping pad - Ensolite or Thermarest type (1)
    • Backpack - internal frame, approx. 30-50 litres (1)
    • Light weight hiking pants (1 pr)
    • Hiking shorts (1 pr)
    • Expedition style outer shell jacket with hood - Gore-Tex style (1)
    • Full-zip outer shell pants (or bibs) - Gore-Tex style (1 pair)
    • Thermal underwear for summit day - top and bottom, Poly-pro, Capilene, etc. (1 pr)
    • Insulating pants - fleece or pile (1 pr)
    • Lightweight gaiters - optional, good for keeping scree out of boots (1 pr)
    • Gloves (medium weight) - wool or poly-pro (1 pr)
    • Expedition style gloves or mitts w/removable liners (1 pr)
    • Socks - synthetic, wool or wool blend (2-3 pr)
    • Warm parka - down, fleece or pile (1)
    • Sweater or vest - wool, fleece or down (1)
    • Toque/warm hat - wool or fleece (1)
    • Hat with sun visor (baseball cap, etc) (1)
    • Bandannas (1-2)
    • Glacier style sunglasses with side shields and nose shield (1 pr)
    • Headlamp with extra batteries
    • Personal kit - (toothbrush, foot powder, skin cream, pee-bottle, etc.)
    • Personal 1st aid
    • Misc. personal items (camera, book, cards, journal, walkman, blister kit, medications, etc.)
    • Water bottles/hydration system - minimum 2 litres. No hydration systems for summit day, they will freeze - traditional water bottles only
    • Sunscreen and lip screen (min. 30 spf & waterproof)
    • Collapsible ski/walking poles (1 pr)
    • Large duffel bag with lock (1)

    When organizing your equipment, remember that the conditions in the wilderness of Mongolia and on the peaks will vary from +30 at lower elevations, to possible lows of -10 degrees Celsius on summit day. Outer clothing should be capable of venting, and you should be able to get in and out of it easily. Inner layers should be able to dry easily and retain warmth when damp. Take into account your own personal "warmth rating". If you know that your hands don't warm up easily, or your feet are always cold, keep that in mind.

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    Logistics and transportation
    When you register, a pre-trip package of information will be sent to you, as well as follow-up discussions via phone and email to ensure you are well prepared for your adventure!
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    Related Programs
    Kenya
    Aconcagua
    Vinson Massif
    Elbrus

    Please contact the Canada West Mountain School office by phone or email directly for more details.
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    Canada West Mountain School
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    Vancouver, BC
    V5Y 1P1

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    This Mongolia Mountaineering page last updated on November 10, 2010 12:20 PM