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Mount Elbrus Images
Mt. Elbrus, Russia
2010 (12-day climbing program)
This exciting expedition to climb Mount Elbrus will take you through the Caucasus Mountains of Russia and on to the highest summit in Europe. Visiting the various regions and cultures of western Russia and traveling into the Caucasus Mountains is almost as much of an adventure as climbing the 5,643 meter mountain!

Dates Cost Prerequisites Location
Guides Itinerary Equipment Logistics
Related programs Registration

Our route to the summit of Mt. Elbrus itself is non-technical and does not require previous mountaineering experience if attempted with our Canadian trained and certified mountain guides. The route is mostly on moderately angled glaciers, but as with any mountain of this altitude, weather, snow conditions and acclimatization still guarantee an exciting and challenging climb!
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Dates:
June 19 - July 1, 2010
July 3 - July 15, 2010
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Cost:
$3,900. + gst (USD $)
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Included in the cost of the Mount Elbrus trip:

  • All guiding services and organization with Canadian Guides
  • All return air and ground transportation from Moscow to the start of the climb
  • Ski area gondola and lift service fees in Elbrus region
  • All food while on the mountains
  • All expedition fees and permits
  • Technical climbing and safety equipment as required
  • On-mountain accommodation where required
  • Tents and camp supplies as required
  • Use of satellite phone (excluding airtime charges)
  • Two nights lodging in Moscow
  • All accommodation (incl. dinner/breakfast) while in the Baksan Valley (Elbrus region)

  • Participants are responsible for:
  • Transportation to and from Moscow
  • All transfer and travel costs while in Moscow
  • All meals while in Moscow (costs are similar to North American cities)
  • All lunches and snacks while in transit and in the Baksan Valley
  • Personal clothing and equipment (see equipment list)
  • Medical and rescue insurance valid for travel in Russia
  • Visa’s and proper travel documents for travel to Russia
  • Miscellaneous personal costs on and off the mountain
  • Tips and gratuities
  • Any costs incurred by travel delays, lost or delayed baggage, or for any other reason

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* Emergency Travel Insurance
All participants are encouraged to obtain Emergency Travel and Trip Cancellation insurance. We recommend Ingle International Insurance, for details please visit their site here.

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Prerequisites
Though non-technical, the climb of Elbrus requires a good degree of fitness. The terrain on Elbrus is exclusively on snow and glaciers, while training climbs in the region are on rough trails with much off-trail terrain. The conditions on summit day are typically quite challenging. Though we will travel at a slow pace, being fit is the best way to avoid excess fatigue on the mountain and will greatly increase your chance of summitting.

Anyone attempting this peak should be in excellent physical shape. You will spend much time at altitudes above 3,500 meters and will need to be as fit as possible to help with your performance.

While previous climbing experience or glacier travel is not required, previous backpacking and wilderness camping is.

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Location
Mt. Elbrus (5,643 meters) is situated in the Central Caucasus of southwestern Russia. The highest summit on the continent of Europe, Elbrus is a heavily glaciated peak with permanent snow and glaciers covering all aspects. Many other spectacular peaks in the 3,500 meter to 5,000 meter range surround the Elbrus massif and provide numerous opportunities for training climbs as well.

We will be attempting Elbrus by a route that involves few technical difficulties, though the mountain can still present a serious challenge due to the altitude, weather and extensive glacier travel required. Crampons and ice-ax are required for the ascent as there is always snow and often ice encountered, though previous technical climbing experience is not necessary to climb Elbrus.

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Guides
This is our 7th season Guiding successfully on Mount Elbrus, with Brian Jones as our lead Mountain Guide on teh Elbrus 2010 Climb. We also work closely with local Russian guide and support staff to ensure that everything goes as smoothly as expected. Brian Jones has led 6 successful expeditions in the past to Mt. Elbrus, as well as several other peaks in the region.

Group sizes on this expedition are kept small to increase the enjoyment of all members of the team, and to improve the chance of success for all. There will be a maximum of 5 members per each guide, with a maximum of two guided groups per trip.

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Itinerary
Trip 1 - June 19th to July 1st, 2010
Trip 2 - July 3rd to 15th, 2010
Our schedule allows enough time to comfortably acclimatize while in the Elbrus region to give us the best chance of summitting while also being able to actually enjoy the ascent! The total length planned for the expedition is 13 days. This includes 1 day to visit Moscow; 1 day to travel to the Caucasus; 5-6 days for training on neighboring peaks and acclimatizing on Elbrus; a 3 to 4 day window for summit attempts; and, 1 day to return to Moscow.

Please allow extra days on either end of the scheduled trip dates for your international flights.

Day 1 - meeting in Moscow on June 19th, or July 3rd
You will meet up with your Guide and the team at this point, and depending on the time of your arrival, this day can be spent relaxing in Moscow doing some sight-seeing and shopping. From our hotel it is very easy and quick to get to Red Square (10 minutes by Metro), where there are many sites and historic areas to visit. Moscow is a very vibrant and "western" city, having moved well away from the pre-1990 Soviet era restrictions that many westerners associate Russia with.

If you have the available time, we recommend arriving the night before in order to adjust to time zone differences before the climb.

Day 2
Fly to the city of Mineralnyyevody. This is a short (2 hour) commercial flight. We are picked up by our van at the airport and driven to the village of Terskol in the Baksan Valley. This trip into the heart of the Caucasus is truly a cultural experience, as this region is as different from Moscow as it is from North America. Our mountain lodge is positioned in a high valley at the foot of Mt. Elbrus. We will sleep @ 2,460 meters.

Day 3
We will start our climb with a day hike up into one of the many side valleys in the Elbrus region, up to approx. 3,500 meters for acclimatization. This region, commonly called "Russia’s Alps", has a long history of mountaineering Many of the peaks are in excess of 5,000 meters and the valleys all provide easy road access. We will sleep @ 2,460 meters.

Day 4
A peak adjacent to Elbrus, Cheget at 3,500 meters provides an excellent opportunity to practice ice ax and crampon techniques, work the legs a bit and take in amazing views of our route on Elbrus. This will be our high point in acclimatizing before we get onto Elbrus proper. We will sleep @ 2,460 meters.

Day 5
This day will be a rest day and allow us to sort our gear, plan our climbing strategy and prep for the move on to Elbrus. We will most likely also include a short day hike option depending on energy levels. We will sleep @ 2,460 meters.

Day 6
Move up on to Elbrus proper for an acclimatization day up to 4,200 meters. We will also carry supplies up for our high camp on this day. This day involves about approx. 3-4 hours of travel with our packs, though the majority of the elevation is gained utilizing a gondola. We will sleep @ 2,460 meters again.

Day 7
Move to our High Camp at approx. 4,200 meters. We will base out of a hut, with the option of staying in tents. The travel time is approx 3-4 hours on this day as well. We will be moving quite slowly and ensuring everyone is well rested, acclimatized and hydrated. At this point on the climb the travel is still on non-technical terrain, though people can expect to be on snow at all times. We will sleep at 4,200 meters.

Day 8
We will head out for a short acclimatization day with light packs to 4,600 meters on the lower slopes of Elbrus. This is another great opportunity to practice with the ice ax and crampons in preparation for the summit day, as well as to get a taste of the thin air up high! We will sleep at Camp II @ 4,200 meters.

Day 9
This is our first Summit-Day attempt! Based on everyone’s level of acclimatization, we will get up very early in the morning and leave by headlamp at around 3:00 am. The summit day is usually around 8-10 hours of travel up to the summit, and around 3-4 hours down, making for a very long day! We will only leave if people are well rested and acclimatized, otherwise another day is spent to ensure a greater chance of success. We will sleep at Camp II @ 4,200 meters.

Day 10
Second Summit-Day option. We will sleep at Camp II @ 4,200 meters.

Day 11
Third Summit-Day option. We will sleep at Camp II @ 4,200 meters.

Day 12
At this point we need to descend to Terskol in the Baksan Valley to prepare to head out to Moscow the following day. This day may be used as a back up summit day as well, though we would then need to descend to Terskol after summitting, which is feasible though an even longer day than normally expected.

Day 13
The full day is required to transfer to Moscow via van and flight. We will arrive in Moscow around 6:00 pm, and have an enjoyable evening before traveling the next day.

Day 14
Depart Moscow on July 2nd for Trip 1
Depart Moscow on July 16th for Trip 2

For more complete details, please contact the Canada West Mountain School office directly.

This itinerary is of course dependent on many different factors, including weather, acclimatization rates, conditions on the mountain and other factors beyond the control of the guides or of the team. Please remember that this is only a guideline, the actual schedule on the mountain may vary, including camp locations and timing.

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Equipment list for Mount Elbrus
To download a printer friendly .pdf equipment list, please click on this Mt. Elbrus gear list link. You will need Acrobat reader to download this file.

We will supply all other technical equipment that is required

* For ski-based trips add standard ski touring equipment (Telemark or Alpine)

When organizing your equipment, remember that the conditions on Elbrus may vary from +30 to -30 degrees Celsius, with possible extreme high winds and heavy snowfall. The climbing and camping on Elbrus is almost exclusively on snow and glaciers. Outer clothing should be capable of venting, and you should be able to get in and out of it easily. Inner layers should be able to dry easily and retain warmth when wet (no cotton on upper mountain). Take into account your own personal "warmth rating". If you know that your hands don't warm up easily, or your feet are always cold, keep that in mind!

As well as the above gear and clothing, be prepared for a few days based out of a lodge in the Baksan Valley. All bedding is supplied in our lodge, but casual street clothes should be brought for this portion, as well as for the time spent in Moscow.

Please contact the Canada West Mountain School office at info@themountainschool.com or by phone at 604 878-7007 for complete equipment requirements and details

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Logistics and transportation
When you register, a pre-trip package of information will be sent to you, as well as follow-up discussions via phone and email to ensure you are well prepared for your adventure!
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Related Programs
Kilimanjaro
Logan
Vinson Massif
Aconcagua
Mountaineering Courses

Please contact the Canada West Mountain School office by phone or email directly for more details.
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Canada West Mountain School
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Vancouver, BC
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This page last updated on January 21, 2010 11:13 PM