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Mount Logan Kings Trench expedition picture
Mt Logan, Kings Trench2009
Join us on this journey to Canada's highest peak, Mt. Logan at 5,959 meters. Canada West Mountain School has been leading mountaineering expeditions up the Kings Trench for over 15 years, one of the classic routes of North Americas high mountain ranges. This moderate route up Mt. Logan is an excellent choice for mountaineers looking to experience a high altitude expedition in a remote and inspiring location!

Mount Logan is the 2nd highest mountain in North America, and is often compared to Alaska's Mount McKinley as "a more spectacular mountain without the crowds"! Unlike Denali, Mount Logan sees very few ascents each year.

Details for 2009 Mount Logan expedition

Mount Logan Kings Trench expedition picture
Dates
Cost
Prerequisites
Location
Guides
Description
Equipment
Logistics
Related programs
Registration
Dates
May 9 - June 1, 2009
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Cost
$5,300. + gst (Canadian $)
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Cost includes:
  • flights on/off Mt. Logan
  • guide fees
  • all permit fees
  • trip food
  • group technical/safety equipment
  • satellite phone
  • ground transportation from Whitehorse to Kluane Lake

  • * Emergency Travel Insurance
    All participants are encouraged to obtain Emergency Travel and Trip Cancellation insurance. We recommend Ingle International Insurance, for details please visit their site here.

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    Prerequisites
    Climbers on this program should have multi-day climbing, backpacking or ski touring experience and be in excellent physical condition. Previous technical climbing experience is not required, though travel will be on glaciers using ropes.
    Mount Logan Kings Trench expedition picture
    The climbing on Logan is generally non-technical glacier travel and crevasse rescue will be taught as required during the initial stages of the trip. Previous high altitude experience is not essential, though it is helpful.

    Skis or snowshoes may be used on this trip - if climbers wish to bring skis they should be advanced-intermediate or expert skiers with backcountry touring experience. Snow shoes are recommended for all others. For safety reasons and due to the need for keeping rope teams moving efficiently it is possible that all team members may be required to travel on snowshoes.

    Due to the nature of the climb and the amount of time required, team members should be prepared to carry large packs and/or haul sleds while ferrying loads between camps. Pack sizes will be approx. 25-30 kg per person for each carry.

    Please contact our office directly if you have questions regarding your suitability for this climb expedition.

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    Location
    Mt. Logan is situated in the remote St. Elias Range of North Western Canada in the Yukon Territory. Logan is renowned for is massive size as well as it's remote setting, making it a highly prized objective among mountaineers seeking a true expedition feel on a high altitude climb. Surrounded by hundreds of square kilometers of glaciers and alpine rock in Kluane National Park, Mt Logan is considered to be one of the worlds largest mountains in size, if not height.

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    Guides
    This season our Mount Logan Expedition will be led by CWMS Mountain Guide Rich Prohaska. Rich has led on our Logan Expeditions for the past 5 years as well as having done numerous ascents of Logan over the past 15 years. A certified ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide, Rich has extensive experience in the big mountains of the world, including ascents on Mt Logan; climbing in the Antarctic, the St Elias Mountains, in Baffin Island and Greenland, as well as many other alpine ascents across North America and Europe.
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    Expedition description
    The Kings Trench route on Logan is an isolated and adventurous path to the highest summit in Canada and 2nd highest in North America. This route is similar in nature to most of the West Buttress route on Denali, with the exception of the fixed ropes section on Denali - no fixed ropes or steep climbing are encountered on the Kings Trench route.

    This once-in-a-lifetime trip starts with a 1-hour flight through some of the highest, most remote mountains in North America. After landing at approximately 2,800 meters at the lower end of the "Kings Trench", we will set our base camp on the Quintino Sella Glacier. From there we spend 5-6 days making our way on skis or snowshoes up the glaciers to establish an Advanced Base Camp at the 4,000 meter col between the Logan Massif and King Peak. After this point, in order to continue acclimatizing well, we will take a rest day before staging our carries over the next few days onto the upper mountain. Our final camp will be at approximately 5,500 meters in preparation for the summit attempt. After the summit, our descent back down our route will take a quick two days. A climb (and ski run for the skiers) to be remembered!

    Due to the need to acclimatize on a mountain of this nature, the elevation gain between camps is only 600-700 meters every 2-days. This allows for a slower pace, though participants should be in excellent physical condition and be prepared for extreme weather conditions and altitude.

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    Equipment list for Mountain Travel Essentials
    Click on this link for a .pdf file of Personal Equipment for Logan Expedition

    NOTE:
    Please keep in mind that the weather on Logan will vary from one extreme to another, with temperatures realistically ranging from -40 to +30 Celsius; winds up to 100 km/hr; and, snowfalls in excess of 1 meter in one storm. Prepare your equipment accordingly. It also is recommended that you have spare street clothes for the beginning and the end of the trip. If you are concerned about your equipment, please contact our office directly for any questions. Also, keep in mind the following:

    • A sleeping bag liner, Bivi-sac or Vapor Barrier Liner (VBL) increases your bags warmth
    • VBL socks with lightweight synthetic liner socks will increase foot warmth
    • Make sure boots and clothing are not too tight or constrictive (boots should not be fit for "performance")
    • Custom fitted Intuition boot liners (or similar) are recommended for boots to increase warmth
    • At higher altitudes it is often not possible to move quickly enough to stay warm, so do not rely on your ability to generate heat while traveling - you must have adequate clothing for all conditions

    If you have any further questions about the equipment required for the Mount Logan trip, please contact us directly to discuss complete equipment requirements and details.

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    Logistics and transportation
    The Logan Kings Trench trip departs from Whitehorse, in the Yukon Territory of Canada.

    The team will meet on Saturday, May 10th in Whitehorse and go over final details and equipment checks before heading to the Kluane Lake staging area for the flight onto Logan. Participants are responsible for getting themselves to (and from) Whitehorse and all accommodation and meals while in Whitehorse. We recommend that all participants plan to arrive in Whitehorse on Friday, May 9th.

    All air and ground transportation, food, permits, Guiding services and group equipment is supplied after departing Whitehorse.

    IMPORTANT NOTE:
    Please note that the flight onto Mount Logan is contingent on safe flying and weather conditions. Due to the nature of the mountain region of the St. Elias ranges, inclement weather can delay flights for periods of up to two weeks, or longer. In the event of weather delays, the team will be camping while based at the airstrip on Kluane Lake. There are limited facilities and amenities at this location so participants should prepare for possible extended stay of camping. A small number of hotels and B&B's may have available accommodation as an option for those who are interested.
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    Related Programs
    Complete Mountaineering
    Guided Adventures
    Ice Climbing Essentials
    Intro to Winter Mountaineering

    Please contact the Canada West Mountain School office by phone or email directly for more details.
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    Canada West Mountain School
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    This page last updated on September 30, 2008 10:07 PM