Unlike the popular Mt. Rainier and other accessible summits of similar height, Waddington offers a true mountaineering experience without the crowds, along with views to rival any peak in the world.

Canada West Mountain School has successfully guided many expeditions to the NW summit of Mount Waddington over the past 20 years, using only ACMG and IFMGA Certified Mountain Guides.

Prerequisites:
Mt. Waddington via the NW ridge requires some previous mountaineering experience. All climbers should be comfortable traveling on snow with crampons and climbing up to 45 degree snow slopes. Like any mountain of this size, good physical fitness is required. A previous mountaineering course or equivalent experience is required. Please contact us directly to discuss whether or not this climb is suitable for you.

Dates:
July 18 - 26, 2009
July 25 - August 2, 2009

Duration: 9 days (7 climbing days, 2 travel and logistics days)

Cost: $3,850. + gst
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Includes all transportation from Vancouver return; helicopter flight in/out of the Waddington Range; base camp set-up; all food; 2 nights B&B accommodation before and after the climb; and, all technical equipment. All guiding is done at a maximum Guide to Climber ratio of 1:3

NOTE: The Mount Waddington climb can also be organized as a private expedition with small groups and individuals in order to suit your schedule and team, often at a 1:1 or 1:2 ratio. Please contact our office to discuss this option.

Objectives and Outline
Mount Waddington is the highest peak in British Columbia. One of the most remote and inaccessible peaks in British Columbia located in the central Coast Mountains it has long been a prized summit amongst climbers from around the world.

Surrounded by glaciers and extensive valley systems, the "Wadd" presents a very remote and challenging objective. For years this peak was an enigma to early mountaineers, it's very existence questioned. Present day climbers usually access the mountain by air to save on the exhausting approach. Even still, a minimum of one week is required to have a good chance at the summit!

Our expedition follows the NW ridge from Fury Gap up to the NW summit of Mount Waddington. This route is classic mountaineering at it's finest, with 3 days spent up high traversing airy ridges, steep snow and rocky "gendarmes". While the exposure is breathtaking along this high ridge, the climbing requires only good fitness and general mountaineering skills.

Climbers wishing to join us on one of our Expeditions to Mount Waddington should be comfortable traveling on glaciers, climbing on moderate snow and ice (up to 50 degrees), and traveling with a packs up to 20 kg's in weight (45 lbs). Previous technical rock and ice climbing experience is not required.

Our Mount Waddington NW Ridge Expedition includes all ground transportation, food, helicopter transportation, base camp supplies, tents, technical equipment and emergency equipment, in addition to the services of our fully certified ACMG Mountain Guides.

Equipment list
- Boots - double plastic mountaineering boots - Scarpa, Koflach, etc (1 pr)
- Sleeping bag - good to minus 15 Celsius range (1)
- Sleeping pad - Ensolite or Thermarest type (1)
- Backpack - internal frame, approx. 70 - 80 litres (1)
- Light weight hiking pants for approach (1 pr)
- Expedition style parka with hood - Gore-Tex style (1)
- Full-zip pants or bibs - Gore-Tex style (1 pair)
- Long underwear - top and bottom, Poly-pro, Capilene, etc. (1 pr)
- Insulating pants - fleece, pile or down (1 pr)
- Gaiters - (1 pr)
- Gloves (medium weight) - wool or poly-pro (2 pr)
- Overmitts - shells only (1 pr)
- Socks - synthetic, wool or wool blend (2-3 pr)
- Liner socks (Poly-pro type) (2-3 pr)
- Warm parka - down, fleece or pile (1)
- Sweater or vest - wool, fleece or down (1)
- Toque - wool or fleece (1)
- Hat with sun visor (baseball cap, etc) (1)
- Bandannas (1-2)
- Glacier style sunglasses with side shields and nose shield (1 pr)
- Ski goggles
- Headlamp with extra of batteries
- Eating utensils - (cup, bowl, spoon, etc.)
- Personal kit - (toothbrush, foot powder, skin cream, pee-bottle, etc.)
- Personal 1st aid (blister kit, medications, etc.)
- Misc. personal items (camera, book, cards, journal, walkman, lighter, etc.)
- Water bottles w/insulation - minimum 2 litres
- Knife - Swiss army style
- Sunscreen and lip screen (min. 30 spf & waterproof)
- Crampons - adjusted to your boots (1 pr) – supplied if needed
- Ice axe (60 - 70 cm) - supplied if needed
- Climbing harness - lightweight seat harness only (1) - supplied if needed

When organizing your equipment, remember that the conditions on Waddington may vary from +30 to -20 degrees Celsius, with possible high winds and rain or snowfall. Outer clothing should be capable of venting, and you should be able to get in and out of it easily. Inner layers should be able to dry easily and retain warmth when wet (no cotton). Take into account your own personal "warmth rating". If you know that your hands don't warm up easily, or your feet are always cold, keep that in mind!

Logistics and transportation
The climbing team will meet in Vancouver and drive to the small town of Tatla Lake in the western Chilcotin's of BC. Tatla Lake is approximately 9 hours driving time from Vancouver, BC.

From Tatla Lake we will head into nearby Bluff Lake on the edge of the Coast Mountains where we stage our helicopter flights in and out of the Waddington Range. The 30 minute spectacular flight into this region of majestic icefalls, valleys and peaks is one of the highlights of the expedition!

We establish our base camp at around 2,500 meters on the glaciers at the base of Mount Waddington's NW Ridge. The first 1-2 days are often spent on training climbs on peaks adjacent to Mount Waddington. Once prepared, and as soon as conditions and weather permit, we will move to a high camp at 3,100 meters. From here we head for the final summit climb. The NW Ridge climb usually requires 3 days total from the base camp, with 1-2 days extra in case of bad weather.

Related Programs
Mount Waddington - Main Summit
Alpine Skills Week
Ice Climbing Essentials
Intro to Winter Mountaineering

Please contact the Canada West Mountain School office by phone or email directly for more details.

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